Friday, December 9, 2011

10 Lbs Potassium Permanganate Koi Fish Pond Aquarium Water Treatment Manganese Greensand Filter Pot Ash Condy's Crystals

!±8±10 Lbs Potassium Permanganate Koi Fish Pond Aquarium Water Treatment Manganese Greensand Filter Pot Ash Condy's Crystals

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Post Date : Dec 09, 2011 11:24:07
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Potassium permanganate is the inorganic chemical compound KMno4,a water soluble salt consisting of equal mole amounts of potassium (K+) and permanganate(MnO4-, officially called manganate (vII) ions. Potassium Permanganate is a strong oxidizing agent. It dissolves in water to give deep purple solutions, evaporation of which gives prismatic purplish-black glistering crystals. Treating Koi and garden ponds against fish disease; acting against a range of protozoan parasites including Trichodina, Costia and Chilodonella, disinfectant (used in cleaning fish tanks), deodorizer, bleach, dye, tanning, reagent in analytical chemistry, medicine (antiseptic), manufacturing of organic chemicals, purification of water and air, and ceramics. In addition to being an effective anti-parasite treatment, Potassium Permanganate can also assist with bacterial gill disease and bacterial disease such as skin ulcers. It will also oxidize dissolved organic matter, reducing the biological oxygen demand and improving water quality and clarity Potassium permanganate is a strong oxidizer and can burn skin, eyes, and other body parts. It will stain you and everything it touches brown. Always use safety protective gear including rubber gloves, goggles and old clothes. A dust mask is advisable to prevent irritation to your respiratory tract. Potassium permanganate, KMnO 4 , is a chemical oxidizing agent that will react with any organic matter in a pond including algae, bacteria, fish, particulate and dissolved organic, and organic bottom sediments. It has been used in fish ponds to treat common fish pathogens such as gill parasites and external bacterial and fungal infections. Contrary to some reports, potassium permanganate does not add significant amounts of oxygen to water and can actually decrease dissolved oxygen concentrations by killing algae that produce much of the oxygen in ponds.

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Friday, December 2, 2011

Carbon Filters, Aquariums and Crayfish Water Quality

!±8± Carbon Filters, Aquariums and Crayfish Water Quality

This by no means is conclusive as it will depend on the type of carbon filter you use and I am not going to give detail on every different type and simply generalise on the subject. I suggest that you check with the manufacturer of your filter first and then treat your water appropriately.

Activated carbon filters remove some and reduce many volatile organic chemicals (VOC), pesticides and herbicides, as well as chlorine, benzene, trihalomethane (THM) compounds, radon, solvents and hundreds of other man-made chemicals found in your tap water.

Some activated carbon filters are moderately effective at removing some, but not all, heavy metals. In addition, densely compacted carbon block filters mechanically remove particles down to 0.5 micron, including Giardia and Cryptosporidium, turbidity and particulates.

Although some iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide will be removed by these higher quality activated carbon filters, a manganese greensand iron reduction filter is generally preferred to remove these contaminants as the effectiveness of carbon filter against iron and manganese is generally short-lived if the contaminant concentration is high.

Carbon filters are NOT generally successful at removing dissolved inorganic contaminants or metals such as minerals/salts (hardness or scale-causing contaminants), antimony, arsenic, asbestos, barium, beryllium, cadmium, chromium, copper, fluoride, mercury, nickel, nitrates/nitrites, selenium, sulfate, thallium, and certain radio nuclides. Removing these contaminants requires either a reverse osmosis water filter system or a distiller, which is not recomended for an aquarium situation.

Many will claim all sorts of wonderfull things they can remove and one of the major misunderstandings is the removal of Chlorine (Cl) or I should say the reduction of Chlorine as it really can not be removed totally as Cloramine is still left behind. The make up of Chlorine is basically Ammonia and Cloramine.

Chloramine (monochloramine) a toxic substance (NH2Cl) created by the chemical reaction of ammonia in your tank and sodium hypochlorite (chlorine bleach) left over in your tap water, even if filtered through carbon filters. This reaction is more potent when in an alkaline situation such as high pH tanks.

You can buy catalytic carbon filters specifically designed for Chloramine removal which would prove better than charcoal (carbon) based filters. You could always use one of these to directly supply water from your tap to your tank, but you will have serious nitrate and nitrite issues. The Chlorine from the tap water would react to the ammonia in your water and produce Chloramine and then the filter would remove the Chloramine. Definately NOT recommended.

Not to mention the elusive Nitrate and Nitrite, as it is very present in tap water filtered or not. So effectively, if you are adding any tap water to your aquarium it must be treated before you put it in. To remove Chlorine you can boil the water. You can remove Chloramine (NH2Cl) with Sodium metabisulfite (Na2S2O5) a sterilizer. However the use of Sodium metabisulfite is NOT recommended as it produces sulfur dioxide (SO2) when put in water. Great for sterilizing bottles for home brews though.

What choices have you got?

Leave it sit:

Chlorine will disapate in 2 to 3 days sitting at room temp. To speed this "aging" process up you can add an aeration to the bucket or drum to agitate the water and help gass off some of the Nitrate at the same time.

Splash some chemical in it:

Chemical De-Chlorinators work well though if you go the basic one Sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O3) then you are still going to be left with a bunch of Ammonia. eg:

EPA Guidelines set a maximum allowed level of Chlorine of 4ppm. Most water supplies target 2-4 ppm Chlorine. Note that 4ppm of Chlorine is actually 5.8ppm Chloramine. (The Chlorine is 69% of the chloramine molecule, ammonia is the other 31%) So, with a possible 5.8ppm Chloramine, you have 4ppm Chlorine, and 1.8ppm ammonia.

There are De-Chlorinators (chemical) that will also convert Ammonia to Ammonium (NH4+ non toxic) this is conjugate acid of the base ammonia and simply has an extra Hydrogen ion. Ammonium in an aqueous solution (your tank) will disolve to create Ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH) which is yet another compound of Ammonia and is still a weak acid. Because Ammonium is considered a weak acid it will then lower your pH. The results of adding a product called "Seachem Prime" that will achieve the above, will differ at different pH levels so be sure to check that first before application.

Side Note - As far as dealing with the Ammonia, if you are experienced enough, you can always add some sulfuric acid to calcium phosphate rock to create some Phosphoric Acid to mix with your Ammonia thereby converting it to Ammonium Phosphate which will feed your bacteria used in the bio-oxidation process to create carbon dioxide and water. But that is an entirely different conversation.

My apologies. I am getting side tracked. Yes it is good to use a carbon filter (preferably GAC granulated activated carbon) though it is not recommended to rely apon it totally as the Chlorine levels in your tap water will change quite often. Not to mention that some treatment plants are starting to use Chloramine instead of Chlorine, as it is more stable in comparison. So if that happens and you dont know about it your crayfish and fish for that matter will die.

By all means use the carbon filter on your tap water. However I will recommend that you also let it sit for at least 24 hours at room temp with an air stone in it. Just to be sure. I would even go so far as to filter the water then add something like "Seachem Prime" and then let it sit aerated for 24 hours. But I am pedantic when it comes to chemical reactions in water and the fewer I have to deal with the better.


Carbon Filters, Aquariums and Crayfish Water Quality

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Saturday, November 26, 2011

What Type of Filter is Best to Remove Iron From Water?

!±8± What Type of Filter is Best to Remove Iron From Water?

Iron in water is an annoying problem and especially when it starts to stain clothes, bath tubs, sinks and cause discoloration. So what is the best way to remove iron from water? As you might have noticed, there are a couple of products on the market and they each seem to perform a different function.

Before you go out and purchase an iron water filter for your home, make sure you do a good deal of research. Not all iron water filters do the same thing and you don't want an ineffective system because they can get pricey.

Types of Treatment Systems That Are Used To Remove Iron Water

Water Softener

For many people with iron water problems, their water is also hard. This is why a lot of people install a water softener, but very often the actual sediments are not filtered out. You will have to change the salt quite regularly if you have a high iron content and your water is hard. A water softener is not the most effective way to treat iron in water, so research other options before installing a system like this one.

Greensand Water Filter

This type of filter is perfect if you have both high iron content in the water, as well as a rotten egg smell. The rotten egg smell is caused by low levels of hydrogen sulfide. A whole house water filter with manganese greensand, is designed to remove only low levels of both iron and sulfur. Sometimes maintenance costs can get quite high if you have to constantly change the filters.

Reverse Osmosis Water Filter

This is a great option to remove more than just iron if you have a problem with other chemicals or contaminants too. Many pollutants will be removed from this system but the downside is that all of the minerals in the water will be removed too. If you have a lot of iron sediments it would be a good idea to get sediment pre filters. This is so that you don't have to change the main membrane (which is quite expensive) too often.

Cheap Iron Water Filters

Is there such a thing? If you are really on a tight budget and are willing to filter from at least one point in the house, then you can look at a standard countertop water filter or undercounter water filter. This means that your drinking water will be filtered but the solution to your washing and bath tub being stained red wont.

Iron water treatments are usually expensive and that is why you need to get the water tested by a professional company who knows what they are talking about before just buying a system


What Type of Filter is Best to Remove Iron From Water?

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Friday, November 18, 2011

Crystal Quest CQE-WH-01195 Iron Hydrogen Sulfide and Manganese Whole House Filter - 1.5 cu.ft

!±8± Crystal Quest CQE-WH-01195 Iron Hydrogen Sulfide and Manganese Whole House Filter - 1.5 cu.ft

Brand : Crystal Quest | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Nov 18, 2011 16:49:06 | N/A


Whole House IRON, HYDROGEN SULFIDE AND MANGANESE Water Filters uses media formulated from glauconite green sand; effectively removes iron and hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg odor) usually found in water. Whole house Filter contains 3 stages: * In Stage 1, water goes through a 20" sediment filter * In Stage 2, water goes through a large Poly glass mineral tank that contains CQ-PY media. It will remove Iron and Hydrogen Sulfide, and reduce Manganese. * In Stage 3, water goes through a 20" solid carbon cartrige. Iron, Hydrogen Sulfide and Manganese Removal System is capable of removing the following contaminants: * up to 15 ppm of both ferric (oxidized) and ferrous (clear) iron * up to 05 ppm of Hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg odor) * up to 10 ppm of manganese The System is designed for water supplies with pH between 6.6 and 8.8. If pH is below 6.6, you need to neutralize it with an acid neutralizer system. System Flow Rage: 11 gallons per minute. Line In/out size: 3/4 or 1 inch, stainless steel bypass valve. Contains Fleck microprocessor which is used to set up backwashing cycles. We have 2 systems available - 1.5 cu. ft. and 2 cu.ft. The difference is that the second system will last 25% longer. 1.5 cu.ft., 10"x54"

More Specification..!!

Crystal Quest CQE-WH-01195 Iron Hydrogen Sulfide and Manganese Whole House Filter - 1.5 cu.ft

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